where to begin?
Everyone must have a favorite type of cheese, for my niece its feta, for my nephew its string cheese (huh?), and for me its Époisses. If you’ve had it, you know what I am talking about; if not, you are in for a treat.
Epoisses is a wash rind cheese made in the village Époisses located nearly midway between Dijon and Auxerre. We have the Cistercian monks to thank for its creation. It came scarily close to disappearing during the 1930s, this lasted until the 1950s, one could assume two world wars had something to do with development troubles.
What is it?
Époisses is a pungent smelling unpasteurized cows-milk cheese, that must be aged at least four weeks. A smear-ripened (first washed in a brine and followed by a rinse in marc de Bourgogne, the local pomace brandy), it is mainly sold in a circular shape contained in an identically shaped wooden box (although I’ve seen Trader Joe’s selling half sizes) When I took my cheese, class, the instructor, Colette Hatch, was adamant, and I have to agree based on the tasting I’ve done, that you do not cut into the rind until you are ready to serve, sure you leave it sitting out to get to room temperature. But precut portions of this cheese, I suspect would be pale substitutes for the real thing.
It’s rind has a distinctive soft red-orange color, but the interior is creamy white. Some say its best served with a good red Burgundy wine, or even Sauternes as they share similar terroir, and its hard to argue there, but I found it equally delicious with champagne. I have to say, it may be a bit of gilding the lily but a dab of champagne jelly and the cheese, and truffle honey were just incredible.
Its best in season between July and February. It is perfect by itself with some lovely crusty bread (sweet as opposed to sour according the instructor at the San Francisco Cheese School She claimed that a sour dough distracted too much from the taste of the cheese).
So what does this have to do with Brillat Savarin?
Why he spoke profound words when he said: ”Époisses is the king of cheeses.” Napoleon agreed with him.
Notre Dame
Other profound bon mots credited to Brillat Savarin
The universe exists only because of life, and everything that lives feeds itself.
Animals feed, men nourish themselves; only men of distinction know how to eat.
The destiny of a nation depends on the manner in which it feeds itself.
The Creator, by condemning man to eat in order to live, invites him to do so with appetite, and recompenses him with pleasures.
Weakness for good food is an act of judgment by which we give preference to things that are pleasant to the taste, over those that do not have that quality.
Pleasures of the Table are for all ages, for all conditions, for all countries, and for everyday; they can be associated with all other pleasures, and remain the last one to console us of their loss.
The Table is the only place where one never gets bored during the first hour.
The discovery of a new dish does more for the happiness of humanity than the discovery of a new star.
Those who eat too much or get drunk do not know how to eat or drink.
church in France
The classification of food goes from the most substanial to the lightest.
The classification of drinks goes from the most temperate, to the smelliest, to the most aromatic.
To claim that one does not need to change wine is an heresy: the tongue gets saturated, and after three glasses, the best of wines do not awake anything but a vague taste.
A dessert without cheese is like a one-eyed pretty girl.
One becomes a cook, but one is born a grillman.
The most indispensible quality of a cook is punctuality; it must also be the one of his guests.
To wait too long for a late guest is a lack of consideration for the other guests.
A person who receives friends, and who does not bring any personal care for the meal that is prepared for them is not worthy to have friends.
To invite somebody is to take charge of his happiness while in your home.
He, not TV’s “Iron Chef’s” Chairman Kaga of the TV series “Iron Chef” is the first person to say “Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.”
Who is he?
Jean Anthelme Brillat Savarin was a French lawyer and politician, who found fame as an perceptive gourmand. He was born in the town of Belley, Ain, to a family of lawyers. He studied law, chemistry and medicine in Dijon in his early years and went on to practice law in his hometown. In 1789, at the onset of the French Revolution, he was sent as a deputy to the Estates-General that soon became the National Constituent Assembly. He added his second surname upon the death of an aunt named Savarin who left him her entire fortune if he adopted her name.
He returned to Belley and where he served as mayor for a year. Later in the Revolution, when there was a bounty on his head, and he sought political asylum first in Switzerland. He moved on to Holland, and then to the brand new United States, where he spent three years in Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Hartford, making a living giving French and violin lessons.
He returned to France under the Directory in 1797 and acquired the magistrate post he would then hold for the rest of his life, as a judge of the Court of Cassation. He published several works on law and political economy.
His famous work, Physiologie du goût (The Physiology of Taste), published in December 1825, two months before his death has amazingly, never been out of print since it first appeared.
My friend Louise, who writes the brilliant blog: Months of Edible Celebrations wrote of Brillat-Savarin, a few years back.
Finally, April 1 is his birthday, and I figured it would be a shame if we did not recognize this pioneering gourmand.
My favorite cheese is the Banon à la feuille, which is an unpasteurized cheese made from goat’s milk, wrapped in chestnut leaves, aged for three weeks, and tied with raffia (palm tree fibers). Epoisses is a close second favorite, I adore this stinky cheese. One of these days I’ll have to do a side to side comparison with a young and well-age Epoisses.
Christine @ Fresh Local and Best recently posted..Snap Pea Shiitake Mushroom Tofu Stir Fry
I’ve never heard of Epoisses, but now I’m desparate to try it! And hey, what doesn’t go well with champagne!?
Crystal recently posted..Farm Friday 6- Spring has Sprung
I have never had Epoisses before…gotta look out for them.
Angie@Angiesrecipes recently posted..Tomato- Olive and Gorgonzola Salad
All is fascinating and I clearly do not know enough about Savarin. You’d think a cheese-fiend (moi!) would have had Epoisses…
Claudia recently posted..Plum-raspberry salsa over chicken – sort of Italian
Like many I never heard of Epoisses, now I have to try it…have a great week!
I am a bit of a cheese fanatic and the Epoisses is one I have yet to try, will be on the lookout
The Physiology of Taste is a great read, as well as is this post. Wishing you a wonderful week!
Louann, I enjoyed the Brillat-Savarin quotes (bonne anniversaire!) and your discussion of Epoisses, which is a wonderful cheese, indeed. I’m trying to recall if I’d eaten any while in Dijon several years ago, having discovered Citeaux on that trip; it’s washed-rind cheese,too, but milder. Now I want to seek some Epoisses!
Thanks,
Dan
first time her…..wow…u hav such an awesome space here…..I see u hav quite a coocetion of Indian recipes too…glad to follow u here
I have a space only on fish recipes…..do visit my space whenevr u hav time !
I adore Epoisses cheese! Cool history bit on Brillat Savarin.
Never heard of this. Although I love cheese, I’m embarrassed to admit that my cheese knowledge is severely limited! Thanks for educating me once again! Now, I need to go hunting for Epoisses…
My husband loves this cheese,…a lot! Thanks for the history on the cheese,..;I laughed when reading it all! You always semm to know a lot about ecverything food related!
You are my personal food encyclopedia!
Sophie recently posted..Orange zested fish with a watercress potato mash & some latest awards!
Hi Louann!
Thank you so much for reintroducing Epoisses to my repertoire. It nearly slipped my mind since I no longer live in New York and haven’t found a local purveyor here in PA. I will be on the lookout for its incredible silky texture ASAP.
Your kind words are truly appreciated. Thanks for the shout-out:) Louise
Louise recently posted..Its Chocolate Mousse Day!!!
I did not know of him, but now I’ve jotted down some of those quotes. Love those and glad to learn a bit more about someone so good with words when it comes to food. Now you have me on the hunt for Epoisses. I have never had it, but you have convinced that it will be my favorite as soon as I can get my hands on some!
Lori recently posted..Hoppin’ John- More Finds from South Carolina
Christine – Its my life goal, now that someday we sit down to a cheese tasting together. What brilliant ideas.
Crystal – You must try it and let me know what you think.
Angie – You will not regret it.
Claudia – You’ve probably been so focused on the delicious goodies that come from Italy that you lost sight of the terrific options from France? =)
Julianna – Have a great week yourself.
MoS – Let me know what you think of epoisse when you give it a try. Wow, to be listed in the same breath as Brillat Savarin – now that’s a compliment.
Dan – If you had not eaten it before its about time you discovered it. Bon appetit!
Sonali – Thank you so much for stopping by. I’d love to check out your blog. I’ve been busy lately and slow to post, and sadly even slower to respond, but I will get there.
5Star – Thanks
Sophia – You’re always teaching me something new, so i am happy to return the favor.
Sophie – I, like your husband, like this cheese… alot. Happy to share the information and hope all is well with you.
Louise – How could I not recognize the wealth of information you deliver.
Lori – He does have some good pithy remarks that I want to throw out from time to to time. You must try the cheese, you will certainly enjoy it.
My favourite: ‘To invite someone is to take charge of his happiness while in your home’ Love his insights and true passion for eating. Thik you’re spot on in the way you described the cheese , a reflection of his passion. It’s certainly wet my appetite and curiosity. Gonna have to hunt down for it.
ruth recently posted..Italian Foodie Experience 3 Cooking for Mini Italians and Pseudo-Italian Meatballs
I’ve eaten a cheese called Brillat-Savarin–interesting to learn the origin of the name. Now I will have to try the Epoisses as well!
I Wilkerson recently posted..Build Your Own Really Good Quiche
great post and man I love French cheese and love California great and beautiful state
Rebecca
rebecca recently posted..Soba Noodles with Vegetables
I’m a big fan of most of cheeses – I don’t have a preferred one, but generally I’m fond of intense, spicy ones.
Anyway, I need to test this creamy Brillat Savarin
Cheers,
Gera
Gera@SweetsFoodsBlog recently posted..Guide How to Import Blogger to WordPress with Error in Your Google Account and Can’t Authorize
I missed my information feeding blog, the Oyster culture! It’s been half a year since I was gone! I hope you are doing well!
I, too have never heard of the cheese. But you know, I would love to try it since I love challenge! Now, I just need to find one, haha!
Oh, I love that cheese! I must say that I haven’t really got a cheese I prefer over all the others… There are so many different cheeses around the world and the choice is too vast. It all depends on my moods, I’ll say.
Cheers,
Rosa
I don’t know the pleasures of epoisse but shall learn. Hegui’s favorite cheese is appropriately named “Brillat Savarin.” It is very creamy and super rich: perhaps like the great man was himself.
Stevie recently posted..Cooking the Books-style vanilla oatmeal buttermilk pancakes
Yes, I have had epoisse. As always, great post. So much I learned…
I truly have never met a cheese I didn’t like (unless it was a “fake” cheese) – a good cheese makes life so much better!
Andrea@WellnessNotes recently posted..We Are Back
I agree with the comments that say they haven’t tried it but are now dying to! It sounds great LouAnn and what a great story. I love the learning that takes place here.
tammy recently posted..Getting Back on the Turnip Truck
Coming here makes me realise how terribly unsophisticated I am regarding food. I have never had or heard of this cheese. So it goes- like so many things I read about here-on my want to try list which is getting ridiculously long!
I love epoisse – i love it warmed a bit on top of thin slices of cooked potato…
Brillat-Savarin: What a smart man! So deserves to have the molds and triple cream brie cheese named after him. So glad that I can eat gooey non-pastuerized cheeses again!
gastroanthropologist recently posted..Victoria Sponge
It’s true — if you’ve never had it before, epoisses can be a little frightening. First, it’s all runny. Second, it is rather odiferous. But try a little and you’re sure to be hooked. There’s nothing else quite like it. And on some crusty bread, it’s pure heaven.
Carolyn Jung recently posted..Wines to Take Along Anywhere