Square in Trastevere
When we told people we were headed to Rome, I lost count of the number of suggestions of “You must explore Trastevere.” I found out they had good reason for saying so. Trastevere is a former working class neighborhood of Rome, across the Tiber river from all the tourist action at the Colosseum and the Forum. It has since gotten very trendy; known for its shops, restaurants, and winding side streets. While it might be more touristy than I like, the meals we had there were divine we made a concerted effort to avoid any place that posted a tourist menu, or had much of their menu translated to English. It is truly a great place to meander with frequent breaks for gelatos and exploring the nooks and crannies. While the options are many, I’ll limit myself to highlights of a few:
kitchen stuff?
Porta Portese is the mother of all flea markets, and without peer in my humble opinion. It operates on Sundays between the Porta Portese and Viale di Trastevere. The stalls were at least three aisles deep in many portions and the length, according to my guide book, exceeds a mile. If you cannot find it here, it has not been invented yet; stalls sell clothing of all kinds, military gear, picture frames, antiques, household cleaners, kitchen gadgets, bicycle parts, antiques, kitchenware, knock-off designer bags, men’s and women’s leather shoes. I could go on. This place is where the locals come to shop, and let’s not forget the “velvet handed” pickpockets are equally opportunist to a bargain in this market. It is truly is an experience that needs to be sampled, but wear comfortable shoes and keep your wallet close at all times.
views of Rome from top of Trastevere
Our first full day in Rome we started off with one of what would be daily runs to stretch our legs, and allow us guilt free dining. We ran up into a section of Trastevere that borders Vatican City and joined some fellow Roman runners. The city park has some great walking trails and is wonderfully tranquil and a marvelous escape from the hustle and bustle of Rome. It was early, but it appeared to us that this area was not frequented by tourists, judging by the few options that were written in English. That being said, the war memorial is here and offers some wonderful views of the city, and here, in this square if you were in a tour bus you might be able to take advantage of this area, but it was a wonderful neighborhood to explore on food, and worth the stairs to check out, and learn some new bits of history. Many other memorials lined the roads leading to the war memorial and all added layers to our knowledge of the long and storied history of this town. This area may be off the beaten walking path for many but you’ll be rewarded for branching out.
A great cheese source
We discovered this amazing cheese shop, Antica Caciara, (Via S. Francesco a Ripa a/b) where they offered up the freshest ricotta cheese that we would buy and cover some equally fresh bread with its creamy lusciousness, we barely exited the store before we had consumed this homemade snack. My husband made it a point to stop there every morning so we could get some of the ricotta. It took all my powers of negotiation to make sure he saved room for the other delicious cheese options the store also offered up. We are not the first to recognize a good thing here, they’ve also be written up in numerous periodically, with some of the English titles including Gourmet, Bon Appettit, The Guardian, and The New York Times. Despite their relative fame, they seemed to remain true to what brought them the recognition, great services and a wonderful array of quality products.
heaven is at hand
NOTE: Most bakeries we visited sold their products by weight so if you saw some incredible looking bread but knew you would not be able to consume the entire loaf, fear not, just tell the shop keeper how much you require, and they would slice it accordingly. I loved this option which I felt gave us much more opportunity than we had originally thought possible.
One of the many forms of SPQR
On our third night in Rome we wanted a nice meal in this neighborhood (which was fast becoming a favorite), and I told my husband I knew just the place; I had written down: Da I2 Ciccino on Vicolo del Cedro, 3 on a scrap of paper. My husband asked how I knew about it and I said someone who went by “JM” recommended this place on the post I did on Rome, and that was good enough for me. ”Do you know this person?” my husband inquired. ”No”, I responded, “but they took the time to comment and that’s all I needed to know.” In hindsight I could understand his skeptisim but JM had me intrigued, and frankly the harder this restaurant was to find (especially in the dark) the more curious I became. JM, I hope you read this post, because I owe you a debt of gratitude. It was simply awesome, this is exactly my husband’s sort of place (that its mine goes without saying) and those can be hard to find. Thank You.
Specifically, JM wrote:
happiness is eating in the dark
I am not sure what DaI 2 Ciccioni looked like when JM dined there, but we had a real Roman experience. We thought we found a private apartment, but it was really the kitchen/dining room for the restaurant. The weather was beautiful and we asked to sit outside. They accommodated us by placing a folding table agains the building across the “street”. Every so often a car would round the corner and might cut the waiter off on his way to deliver us some delicious morsel, but that was all part of the atmosphere. That night it was amazing, going back the next day to find it was a bit like Cinderella after the clock had struck midnight, looking at the entrance in the light of day, I was hard pressed to believe I had that amazing meal there the night before.
scene of the dining experience in the light of day
So here’s how it works, for a flat €25, you sit down and a server wordlessly brings you some delicious bruschetta, followed by plates of some of the tastiest beans and potatoes to pass my lips (I am now on a mission to replicate them). After that, came a pasta course which had three options, my husband had rigatoni all’amatriciana, and I had rigatoni with cheese and pepper. I was so hungry, that I forgot the type of cheese, and the third option went right out of my head. If that was not enough we then had a meat course. I had pork in a spicy red wine sauce. Mr. Oyster selected the chicken sautéed with white wine, garlic and rosemary, with an addictive vinegary tang served on a bed of lettuce (another recipe I am determined to replicate). It was all heaven and if I had walked 20 miles that day, I probably would have exploded like the gentleman in Monte Python. Dessert was a selection of truffles (store bought) and cookies (really more like biscuits) served with bottles of grappa and limoncello that you helped yourself to.
I loved that this place was all about the food, there was nothing precious about it. The delicious house wine was served in squat tumblers and the grappa came with plastic cups like you might have used with your mouthwash. We waddled to our B&B well contented and marveling at the delicious meal we just ate. It was definitely a highlight of our trip.
For the record, all of JM’s other recommendations were spot on as well.
Finally, get off the main streets. This is a place to hide your guide book or map until you are desperate, besides if you are looking at them you’re missing a lot. Follow you bliss and go where the mood strikes, and trust me you will not be disappointed.
How timely that you are writing your impressions of Rome after I just finished reading (yet again, for the umpteenth time!) one of my favorite novels ” Letters from Capri” by Soldati.
This is a wonderful place to vacation and I am glad you are enjoying your time there.
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Wow. Sounds like an amazing place. LOL at your husband’s skepticism on the recommendation from a stranger to eat there. Word of mouth is always the best advertisment:-)
Your meal at Dal 2 Ciccioni sounds amazing. So does the ricotta and bread and going for a run in Rome. Hope you do recreate those dishes and then share the technique with us!
I love antique shopping in Europe! There are so many treasures! It reminds me of how young of a country we are in contrast.
I wish that bakeries would offer breads by weight here too. I think everyone would benefit from trying a diverse range of breads.
My husband throws me a good dose of skepticism way too often, and I am much less understanding of it than you. I’m glad that he was persuaded to take more risks and that you guys were rewarded with such an incredible dinner.
Ah, sounds like you really enjoyed yourselves. I love Trastevere. We spent a lot of time there when we lived in Rome. Very charming. The trattoria you went to sounds great too! Will put it on my list. Less than 2 weeks to go!
Taste of Beirut – So far just Trastavere, Rome was simply amazing. There was just so much to take in. Still trying to digest it all.
Wizzy – Loved showing hubby a thing or two about the power to food blogging =) He is converted.
Lisa – The meal was simply divine and will definitely share when I’ve figured out the magic ratios.
Christine – Antique shopping is a blast, and would have done more but we had really limited luggage as we elected not to drive but take public transportation.
Brenda – I envy you going back, Woohoo the count down is on.
Looks like a great adventure. I so feel like eating rigatoni after reading this. Hmmm. What’s for dinner?
Sounds like you had an awesome time in Italy! Bloggers (via blog and twitter) have definitely made sure the days of a wasted meal due to ignorance and tourist mistakes in a foreign country obsolete for me. I’ve gotten so many great recommendations from the JM’s of the world.
Don’t you love it when the husband gets excited about some sort of food that he plans some part of his day around it?
OH how i wish to visit rome. It’s such a lovely city. I gotta start saving up. hehehe…
I am so envious! It has been years since I’ve been to Rome. Ah, the food, the sites, the architecture — what’s not to love?
Wonderful trip to visit the Italian culture and adore entering into cheese shops – better they’re mostly homemade
Cheers,
Gera
Everything sounds fantastic. The ricotta cheese for only 4.50 a kg is a real bargain too AND so good too – it would be worth going just for that! Great photos too.
I would love to visit Italy!!!!Thank you for sharing!
I’m taking notes! We think we may be visiting Scandinavian countries next summer because my daughter was so interested but her latest nonfiction choice from the school library was a book on Rome, and Italy is our first choice for next summer, so we’re hopeful
The place you ate in sounds very authentic!
I am going with my husband in May and keeping this post for reference. All I can say is “wow.” You’ve rendered me at a loss for porper words.
I could spend the entire day at that flea market ‘poking’ around! And all of your food sounds wonderful! How funny about the cars cutting off your waiter – what an experience!
That flea market sounds like an interesting place. I think it’s one of the best ways to get to know the people in that area. Also I love the idea that pastries are sold by weight, then I would try various products. Thanks for sharing these.
When are you going to publish your own TRAVEL GUIDE?
)
Oh my. I want to drop everything and go to Rome right now – it feels like an age since I’ve been there. Your meal at JM’s recommended restaurant sounds like the perfect holiday experience and I will, of course, be waiting with bated breath for your rendition of their potatoes and beans
i cherish so much Rome !!Pierre
Oh, you bring back memories. I’m glad you had what looks like a superb time. And so glad you explored Trastevere – we stayed there last year and I’d heard so much about it before we left. I never made it to that market – probably good thing too with my penchant for prop acquisition. Take care and LOL
I haven’t been to Trastever…would to visit next time in Rome, is sure seems that you had a great time…love the pictures
Tammy – I hope you enjoyed your rigatoni.
Gastro – I agree, the JM’s of the world are what make traveling fun, and it was a blast having hubby plan strategic stops around food!
Jenn – I think you would love it, look forward to hearing your stories some day.
Carolyn – I agree, Rome is heaven, except for the cobblestones, which nearly crippled me and the traffic. Ah sigh, wish I was back.
Gera – Completely agree, cheese shops have a very special place for me.
Chrystal – I think your right, and if there’s one thing my hubby can spot – its a bargain,
Erica – My pleasure~
5Star – I can imagine that you would reach culinary heaven in Italy and look forward to your interpretation upon your return.
Claudia – There’s more where that came from =)
Reeni – That was a crazy night that we will not soon forget.
Zerrin – I agree, checking out a flea market is a great way to find out about the local culture.
Angie – Maybe soon! =)
Spud – The research is on! I have the pot on the stove as I type.
Pierre – I agree, something to treasure.
Kitchen Butterfly – Now you just need to go back. You would find props galore there.
Juliana – We had a blast and highly recommend Trastevere
Wow. You guys certainly had fun. I love, love, LOVE Trastevere and this post just brings back lots of fond memories of Rome. I’ve never been to that cheese shop, though. In fact, one of my biggest regrets is that in most of my travels in Italy, I’ve focused more on museums than food places. It will be very different from now on. Look at that fresh ricotta … heaven is at hand indeed.
Look forward to more posts on your recent trip!
First off kudos to you for getting up early for a morning run, I would have woken up early just to be able to stuff my face with tht ricotta, oh what a adventure and how awesome is that flea market, I could browse there forever…I am so glad you took JM advice, it’s true if he took the time to commnet he was clearly trying to help you enjoy your trip. Oh I love that you sat outside and the waiter whizzing past cars….love it!!
sweetlife
I agree to sweetlife! You are so diligent with your exercise! You must have gotten extra workout by walking around the city, too! I’d love to try “real” freshly made ricotta one day! Didn’t you tell me while ago that you’ve made your own at home, too? How was it compared to that?
Leela – Once to Trastevere is definitely not enough, already plotting the return trip, so much to explore and sample. We took the opposite approach from you, focused on food and neglected the museums – is there a happy medium?
Sweetlife – Helps to have an extremely focused hubby. I feel so wise to have taken JMs advise, he/she was a wealth of very valuable information. The cars only added to the atmosphere, let me tell you that me was a wonderful experience.
Kitchen M – I have made fresh ricotta and it was very good, but there is something to be said for the source of the milk and I have to say that I think Italy has happy cows, the ricotta we had was a bit sweet with definite hints of nutiness. Ah, the memories. =)
Such a great tour you have given us here…I am in love with the idea that the bakers sell by weight, that would be so perfect. I love fresh breads but they outlast my ability to consume…
Some day
What a cool area. We haven’t done any of Italy yet, so I’m glad to have these little tips. Running while traveling is such a great way to mix with the locals. I have to say that a perfect day equals discovering an amazing European cheese shop.
Aaaah! Amazing! Thanks for naming two must-see spots.
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