Salty Goodness By Whatever Name: Chips or Crisps
a load of the munchies
I recently swapped a few emails with FoodGal about haggis before my trip to Ireland and the exchange reminded me of my time in London when I enjoyed sampling the different flavors of potato chips (or crisps as they call theme) with my lunch time sandwich – I tried to never repeat a flavor. Sorry, did I manage to loose you with some leaps of logic: haggis → potato chips? We were discussing first haggis enocounters, and I said my first time trying that unique flavor was when I convinced myself to sample some haggis flavored chips on a trip to Scotland. It was an easy way to stick a toe in as it were before I fully committed myself to the haggis experience. I did sample, and to quote my mother, “It was interesting”. However, that first taste opened my eyes to all the possible flavors of chips that can be found. So, on my recent trip to Ireland, I checked out many of the new and different flavors developed in the UK and Ireland knowing that similar taste sensations had not found themselves back in the States, and some probably would not ever make it. Roast beef with root vegetable, anyone? My weakness for salty, crunchy snacks made me more than up for this culinary adventure.
How the Chips Got their Start
Parsnip, honey and black pepper flavored
Researching the history of the chips made me laugh when I learned that they were essentially invented because some picky eater rejected his French fries, much like Chicken Tikki Masala got its start in Glasgow after a diner complained of being deprived of his gravy. Thank goodness for picky eaters!
In 1853, George Crum, was a chef at an elegant restaurant in Saratoga Springs, New York. One dinner guest found Crum’s French fries too thick for his liking and rejected the order. I imagine Crum was a bit piqued, because he then created fries that were too thin and crispy for a fork. The customer, far from being riled, loved the new crunchy potato treats, and that, as they say, is that. Other guests started demanding this new fangled potato dish and it was soon added to the restaurant’s menu as “Saratoga Chips”. In 1860, Mr. Crum opened his own restaurant and naturally, featured a basket of potato chips at every table.
a plethora of choices, roast ham anyone?
About the same time that Mr. Crum opened his restaurant, enterprising folks realized this treat might be good to sell in grocery stores. The first person to act on this idea was likely, William Tappendon of Cleveland, Ohio, in 1895. He make chips in his kitchen and delivered them to neighborhood stores. Later, he converted a barn behind his house into “one of the first potato chip factories” in the country, thereby expanding the love for this crispy treat. Production of this food was limited because potatoes were tedious to peel and slice by hand.
Thanks to American ingenuity, and love of potato chips it can be assumed, the invention of the mechanical potato peeler in the 1920s allowed the potato chips to become a top-selling snack food. Until distribution and expanded production picked up, potato chips remained a Northern dinner dish for decades.
Mature Irish Cheddar Cheese & Spring Onion
In 1921, Bill and Sallie Utz started the Hanover Home Brand Potato Chips in Hanover, Pennsylvania. Sallie with her knowledge of Pennsylvania Dutch cooking made the chips in a small factory they set up in a summer house behind their home. With hand-operated equipment, Sallie made about fifty pounds of potato chips per hour, and Bill delivered them to “mom and pop” grocery stores and farmer’s markets in the Hanover, PA and Baltimore, MD area. Utz brand potato chips remain a favorite of the Baltimore area to this day.
Out in Monterey Park, California the Scudders company began making potato chips in 1926. Laura Scudder is credited with developing the wax paper bag for potato chips which allowed for expanded distribution possible because of its preserving properties. Prior to this bag, potato chips were dispensed in bulk from barrels or glass display cases.
In 1932, Herman Lay founded Lay’s in Nashville, Tenn. Herman Lay, a traveling salesman in the South, peddled potato chips to Southern grocers from the trunk of his car. He built a business and a name that would become synonymous with the thin, salty snack. Lay’s potato chips became the first successfully marketed national brand.
The industry that George Crum launched in 1853 continues to grow, in part because he did not put restrictions on his product (intentional or not), allowing others to build businesses around his creation. Potato chips have be America’s favorite snack: US retail sales of potato chip are over $6 billion a year. In 2003 the US potato chip industry employed more than 65,000 people.
From Chips to Crisps – Making the Leap Across the Pond
Salt and Vinegar Flavor
In 1913, a fellow named Carter manufactured the first British potato crisps, but it was not until the Smiths Potato Crisps Company Ltd formed in 1920 that crisps were available to the masses. This was a family company where Mrs Smith washed, cut and fried the potatoes in the couple’s North London garage, and Mr.Smith packaged them in greaseproof paper bags which he transported around London from his pony and trap. He also added some different flavorings and salt which proved so popular, that within a year, the company outgrew its location and twelve employees were added. [Source: bbc.co.uk]
Feeling the pinch during the Depression, Smith expanded his business to Australia. However, this did not improve the situation, and the company went bankrupt in 1932. This may have been the last of Smith’s Crisps, were it not for Smith’s friend and colleague George Ensor. Ensor purchased the company and Smith’s Crisps (Australia) were born – the leading shareholder was Smith’s Crisps UK Ltd.
Balsamic vinegar and caramelized onion
The company thrived and during World War II, rumor has it that little bags of salt weren’t the only additions found in Smiths crisps. Apparently, the women packing the crisps occasionally inserted little pieces of paper with their names and addresses on them to attract lonely soldiers. (I am curious as to how many romantic connections were formed over a bag of crisps.)
Henry Walker was a very successful pork butcher from Mansfield who eventually moved to London. Due to rationing, Walker struggled during the war, and his shop was frequently picked dry by mid-morning. With the situation tight for the small business, Henry realized that diversity was needed. Since potatoes weren’t rationed, crisps could be the future of the business. Facing bankruptcy in 1948, the workforce went into production in the upper floor of the meat factory at Oxford Street, Leicester and Britain’s most popular crisp went into production. Walker’s is still a brand to be reckoned with today.
In 1947, a Scottish baker, William Alexander, had a similar “ah ha” moment about potato crisps and started to produce them when he had completed his early-morning baking shift. William named his crisps after the Golden Wonder potato from the Arbroath area in Scotland. Golden Wonder was the first company to produce pre-salted crisps, negating the need for the little blue salt bag. They are the first crisp company to introduce ‘proper’ flavor to crisps, with cheese and onion in 1962. This crisp innovation opened the floodgates of creative flavoring for the perfect crisp, and inspired me to write this post.
Some Tasteful and Some Not So Much
choices, choices, choices
The ensuing search produced some popular results, including smokey bacon, prawn cocktail and Smith’s answer to Golden Wonder’s cheese & onion was a salt and vinegar flavor. The UK’s crisp market was very competitive in the 1960s and 1970s, producing some very interesting flavors to meet demand by an increasingly voracious market. Such gems as tomato ketchup, Worcestershire Sauce, Branston pickle and sausage flavor have sated the hungry masses over the years, but the most outlandish flavour ever must be hedgehog.
According to a BBC write up, in 1981, Welsh pub-owner Philip Lewis manufactured hedgehog-flavored crisps. Lewis interviewed gypsies, who supposedly enjoy the occasional baked hedgehog. He took their advice on the taste and flavorings required. Amazingly, the flavor caught on, but Lewis had to change his advertising from hedgehog ‘flavored’ to hedgehog ‘flavor’ due to advertising standards AKA “truth in advertising”, because the crisps did not actually contain hedgehogs.
What’s a Crisps Lover To Do
Walkers leads UK sales, topping an amazing £480 million annually. They succeeded because they refused to comply with the industry norm. The crisp industry had a ‘gentleman’s’ agreement which ensured their flavors would be easily recognized; salted crisps were sold in dark blue packets, salt and vinegar in light blue, and cheese and onion in green. Walkers deviously decided to mix it up, because when they relaunched their products in the 1980s – they changed the package color to blue for cheese and onion and green for salt and vinegar. The resulting confusion substantially increased sales of their salt and vinegar crisps.
Red Paprika anyone?
With the rapid rise in popularity of the crisp, many additives such as food preservatives, artificial coloring and flavoring are the norm. But in a twist of fate, in an industry a new trend is emerging: hand-made crisps. These new crisps are free from additives, and can claim a certain superiority over the mass-produced item. A new technique requires new flavors; ketchup and sausage will no longer do. The new flavors include: lamb and mint sauce, balsamic vinegar with caramelized onion and seasonal delights such as blue stilton with port and cranberry, sage and thyme. Some makers, such as Kettle Foods, are pushing the boundaries even further by offering an organic range, with organically-grown potatoes fried in virgin olive oil. All for the more discerning customer, because not just any crisp will do.
Now I know how the beloved chip got its birth. Thank goodness for that because I don’t know where I would be without them. The many different flavors and all.
I so love the different flavours in chips! In the Uk , you can find salt & vinegar, but in Belgium you can’t! It is all about the known & used flavours in 1 country!
We have a large English sop in Belgium, & that is very useful so we can buy those crips over there, like English cheddar with spring onions!
Thanks for this lovely post! I also love purple potato crisps! or mixed vegetable crsips like beetroot, parsnip, sweet potato crisps: they are much healthier too!
I had to get some crips whilst I was reading this lol! It’s quite curious. I always thought crisps had started in the UK. It’s funny because the compettitve thing is so true. Last year Walkers launched a selection of weird flavours such as Fish and chips (truly yuck), builders’s breakfast (a mixture of bacon, eggs and baked beans and it was…interesting), baked squirrel (dont even go there) and finally the worst of all, Chocolate and chilli chips! Needless to say they didnt go down too well and have now been removed from the market.
Great post as usual!
Give me bacon flavoured crisps anytime! Sort of missing it now, that Im living in Italy! Theres only one flavour here, plain! But hey, the rest of the Italian cuisine makes up for it!
I loved reading the history of chips! Thanks so much for this wonderful write-up!
How fascinating, crisps are all around us every day, but I had no idea about their history.
I have to admit to salt and vinegar being an old favourite, they were what I always craved after a trip abroad, along with Heinz baked beans on toast…
But my favourite find now has to be Red Sky http://www.redskysnacks.co.uk/ and they are even wheat and dairy free!
What a great post!I enjoyed very much as usual
I love potato chips.
Lovfe salty and the choices you presented! I adored Maui Chips in Hawaii and the stuff that’s here – it’s just not the same!
Jenn – I now, I need a list to keep track!
Sophie – I love the various root vegetable varieties too, tell myself they are more nutricous! =0
Ruth – =) Fish and chips? Wow! Hmm, the Builders Breakfast does indeed sound interesting. Its amazing the combos they develop. I’d feel sorry for your lack of chips except you get to live in the land of some fabulous food! Hope all is well!!
Natasha – Thanks!
Springtime – Redsky sounds like something i need to check out! There is something to be said about salt and vinegar chips!
Erica – Thanks!
Claudia – Forgot about Mauis they are tasty!
I was in Spain long ago when I stumbled upon a woman’s little shop that sold nothing but hand-made fried chips — potato ones, and even ones that looked like Cheetohs. I bought a bag of the potato chips and they were the best ones I’d ever had. They were crispy and actually tasted like potato. To this day, I still remember them fondly.
I sooo swear, Food Network needs to make a show of your blog. Very informative and makes us all even more educated.
Thanks for the post!
Btw, in the Philippines, they have some very odd flavors such as hamburgers, cheeseburgers and such. IT does taste soo good though.
I have lost my taste for salt, well too much that I find in chips due to HP over the past few years, but I have to say I did enjoy the variety you find across the pond, they do love their chips, or crisps…now they have become wide spread over here, and give me a ‘small’ bag of vinegar and salt! Till my cheeks and tongue go south…
Now I have a story about chasing a Cadbury truck from Galway to Dublin I posted once…those delivery trucks catch my attention!
Can you email me I have a question for you…please and Thanks!
I am a big fan of these goodies. They go well whenever. I spot a picture of the vinegar one… and I sighed. I love that flavor with a passion! When I was in the US, I’d get big packs of Lay’s yumyumyum. My boyfriend would cringe haha. Aww. With you featuring it this post, a lot of memories attached to chips came back – and it’s funny I never thought of them as a part of me haha. You know. Thanks dear LouAnn. – Oh and I hope you’re doing well. Been quite a while, but I’m slightly back & rejuvenated I should say. Just recently took a trip to this old wine village which I’m sure you’d enjoy the photos of =) Somehow… Oops I’m writing a letter here. Alright I’m out! But take great care,
Oz
I’m fascinated with Utz chips because I only recently realized that’s a real brand. I had seen the chips on Mad Men and thought it was a made-up name for the show–then I found their pretzels in my regular grocery store.
Sage and thyme sounds delicious. I have to find those!
Haggis-flavored chips? EEk!! Not sure I’ll want them.
Is there kimchi flavored chips? I’m sure there are somewhere!
Carolyn – those chips sound amazing, I hope to try them myself one day
A+A – thanks, that would be fun! Those flavor combinations sound very interesting, I might need to investigate further.
Chef E – I am much more of a salty/savory person than a sweet one, but your story of chasing a Cadbury truck has me all ears!
Ozge – Thanks so much for stopping by – I’ve had the worst luck trying to respond on your wonderful blog. I cannot do it, but now I have your email again. Your Lay’s attacks sound like something I would do, but once I start munching, its hard to stop. I’ve gotten a lot better though. Glad you are well rested and look forward to catching up on your posts soon!
Lisa – Utz is good, but I have to say, I am firmly in the Kettle chip camp – I like my chips with a solid crunch, and I have to say my favorite flavor is jalapeno – I could eat them all too easily!
Sophia – I bet kimchi would rock! We’ll have to check them out.
Chips are one of those foods for me that I rarely eat at home, but I love to try out different flavors when traveling like you mentioned. In Brazil we had roasted chicken flavored and if you closed your eyes when you ate it you’d swear you were eating a piece of chicken (minus the texture of course). They also had turkey flavored and our most interesting try was champagne flavored.
I’m boring when it comes to chips. I like mine with nothing but salt and sometimes with salt and vinegar. Some flavors are quite good, though, especially ones with rosemary. The most disappointing fancy chips I’ve had, believe it or not, are each and every single one of Lay’s Thai-flavored chips. Those are unbelievably disgusting.
How do you guys eat your chips? To me, chips make a complete snack or even meal. I don’t know why, but I’ve never seen them as dip vehicles or a sandwich side. Weird?
How could a chip be so “rich” in history?? GREG
tayto crisps reign supreme in our household. the irish are mad about them!
My faves are the vinegar-flavored ones! Oh I’m craving for some now
I’ve never heard of parsnip chips though…
Lori – I never eat them at home either, they’re a guilty pleasure when I travel. Roasted chicken sounds very intriguing.
Leela – never boring, we all have our basics. Definitely nothing wrong with salt potato chips, sometimes simple is best. I thought the Thai flavored chips were gross too, glad I was not along there.
Sippity – rich indeed!
KMS – Ah Tayto, they are good!
Jackie – Oops, sorry! =)
I rarely ever eat chips at home but I do so love to try out different kinds when I’m traveling. Who knew that so much history on the little old chip could be dug up! Great info.
Haggis flavored chips?!?! Wow, I’d never have believed it if it wasn’t from you. Utz is a big favorite of mine when I’m in the States. Have you ever tried Fruit chutney flavor – it’s a big SOuth African favorite.
Ewww!! Haggis and hedgehog! I wish we would get some of the more exotic adventurous flavors here. Cheese and onion sound delicious. Loved hearing how they got their start.
I could eat chips everyday! I ate them in races when I need salt but… I need to try the new flavors caramelized onions mmmm
As always so wonderful information!!
Cheers
Gera
Lisa – potato chips are not found in my kitchen, but I confess to trying them when traveling too. Love how they are a reflection of the spices and tastes of a country, although I am not sure about hedgehogs.
Crystal – I know, I was shocked! I have not tried the fruit chutney flavor, but will be sure to be on the look out – sounds very intriguing.
Reeni – I know, but I take it if you want exciting, something a little tamer would do =)
Gera – I’m with you, but never thought to eat them in races – you’re always full of good ideas.
Well, well! Who would have known?
Some time ago, a few misguided politicians in the US wanted to ban French Fries (they’re Belgian!). Why didn’t they fall back on their own invention? LOL
Great posting, Lou ann!
Thanks for sharing!
Cheers,
Robert-Gilles
…but of course I love this, how could I not. One simply has to pay attention to a post mentioning both hedgehog and haggis flavoured crisps
It’s interesting that we have traditionally been less diverse in our crisp flavourings in Ireland than in the UK. It took us an awfully long time to move beyond cheese ‘n’ onion and salt ‘n’ vinegar. Mind you, Tayto did both of those so well, I guess we didn’t feel the need! I distinctly remember as a 12 or 13 year old, visiting the UK for the first time, being blown away by all of the flavours of crisps you could get there. I became a particular fan of prawn cocktail – which to this day is not really a big thing on this side of the water, so I generally stick to the Tayto favourites, if anything.
Hedgehog? Pickles and sausage? What! Now those might be the ‘not so much’ flavors, but the creativity is appreciated. Who doesn’t love potato chips?
The “crisps” flavors here never cease to amaze me. Very, very interesting combinations. I always think of willy wonka’s gum when I see some of the flavors because many are whole meal combination flavors. Those Phileas Fogg bags are on sale at my local grocers buy 1, get 2 free this week…let me know if you want me to bring you some! I’ll email you soon about possible dates that we might be able to meet up?!
Robert-Gilles, I laughed so hard when I saw your post on chips, about the same time as mine. Great stuff. http://shizuokagourmet.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/real-potato-chips/
Spud- I wanted it to be an attention grabber =) I really need to try the prawn cocktail, I got distracted by all the intriguing flavors
Duo – I know, crazy fun to sample!
Gastro – I had the same thought – especially when I saw the roast beef flavored crisps. Can’t wait for our meet up. No worries on the crisps, I know how challenging those are to travel. Just look forward to seeing you. Safe travels!
You had better prepare a skillet for all those birds we kill with a single stone! Great with chips!
Meaning: we tend to throw the same stone at the same target! LOL
It’s definitely great to learn that the origins of foods maybe so intersting. I do love chips especially with a spiced yogurt dip. However, as they cause some skin problems, I try to avoid eating them often.
Heehee, my favourite snack! Crisps though, not potato chips. You’ve clearly done your research! When I was a teen, I ate Walkers, now I eat Tyrells, although I do eat Sensations Thai Sweet Chilli crips (from Walkers), which is incredibly addictive…
Robert-Gilles – Skillet is at the ready and looking forward to honing in on the next target
Zerrin – I love chips too but do not keep them in the house to avoid temptation
Helen – Salty and crunch what’s not to love I’ll have to try Sensations next time I visit the UK